2021 Ovum Gruner Veltliner
Grüner is one of those grapes that has really had to fight for its seat at the table of beloved varietals. Once seen as the lesser stepsibling to Riesling’s golden-child brilliance, on the global scene it is now surely beyond question that any sommelier worth their title would present a list without at least one fine example. Australia, though, still struggles to properly give this exciting Austrian beauty her own lane, frequently pushing her down a path of rasping, Riesling-esque austerity. Not here. Ovum – so named for our concrete egg-shaped fermenter – is floral, fresh and spiced opening to plush ripe rockmelons. Whole bunches and skin fermentation and a conscious decision not to release early ensure layers of weight and texture, similar to how we would handle a Chardonnay. Drink with something (or someone) rich and sumptuous.