Swaby absolutely evolves in response the vintage, but you can never accuse her of shrinking away like a violet: some years she breezes past like a cyclone and takes your breath, some she strides with consequence and a forceful click of the heels. 2020 sees her being properly severe and serious, all up in your business with spices and stone fruit. Have you ever noticed how ads on TV sound louder than the show you were just watching? They do not, in fact, turn the volume up to 11. Instead, more sound is actually compressed into the same audio space, exaggerating wavelengths. That’s our Swaby 2021 – concentrated, powerful and filling every possible void. With a pithy back palate and a muscular structure, she’s not even giving away too much just yet. This is a wine that will last in your cellar for a very long time, if you let it. 100% Piccadilly Chardonnay, handpicked, wild-yeast fermentation, whole bunch pressed to barrel, some bâttonage, 10 months in 25% new French oak, unfiltered and unfined, only 50 dozen made.