Ramato sure is pretty to look at. Salmon pink with copper highlights… strawberry blond… we could just sit and stare all day. But that’s not why we’re here. The Friuli style is an extended maceration, skin-contact Pinot Gris – giving it its tropical sunset glint – and aromatic impressions are smoked charcuterie and Moroccan spice with all of the earthy depth of a Pinot Noir. Ten months in puncheon round off the edges, leaving a rustic, bone-dry palate of apples and medlars with notes of cardamom and spicy cinnamon. Food-loving tannic structure. As good an excuse as any for a lingering summer brunch… the kind that turns into dinner.